Today would have been the 110th birthday of Italian fashion designer Emilio Pucci, marking more than 70 years of his influential designs since the start of his career in 1947. In this blog post, CHM costume collection intern Eloise Lyons writes about flight attendant uniforms Pucci designed for Braniff International Airways that are in CHM’s Costume and Textiles Collection.

Front cover (left) and page 8 (right) of This Week magazine, Chicago Daily News, October 2, 1965.

With the increasing prevalence and accessibility of airline travel in the 1960s and ’70s, many airline companies sought out new ways to capitalize on the moment and capture the imagination of potential travelers and jet-setters. One such airline, Braniff International Airways, hired Italian fashion designer Emilio Pucci (1914–92) to create flight attendant uniforms for their rebranding of Braniff from 1965 to 1974. Pucci’s vibrant and contemporary designs would inspire other airlines to follow suit, evolving the style of uniforms from the 1960s to the ’70s. Since Braniff International Airways flew out of Chicago and had offices in the city, the Chicago History Museum was gifted four complete ensembles from the original collection of flight attendant uniforms.

At a time when air travel was booming, airlines set themselves apart through their designs and stylish female flight attendants. Braniff marketed this transition as, “the end of the plain plane” and redesigned their airplanes’ interiors and exteriors to match their groovy and lavish makeover. Their planes were brightly colored in oranges and blues. Pucci’s redesign of Braniff’s uniforms brought his high fashion and casual wear together to create a layering of clothes for flight attendants to quickly change in and out of. The new makeover was marketed toward male travelers, sexualizing the female-dominated role of the flight attendant from the 1960s to the ’70s.

The zippered jacket allowed for quick changes. Note the Braniff bird emblem on the right chest area. 

In 1965 Pucci released the “AirStrip,” also called the “Gemini IV.” Each piece was interchangeable and layerable. Pucci was able to create chic but comfortable uniforms that adapted to the working conditions of the flight attendants. The bold pink skirt and suit could be worn over the purple turtleneck blouse and culottes, while the lime green coat was functional for weather changes while flying.

Pucci chose a swing coat style for his Braniff uniform design. It was featured on the front cover of Chicago Daily News’ This Week magazine.

“The Puccino” was meant to be worn as an apron and was released in a variety of bright colors. Pucci’s accessories were just as bold, including, most notably, the “bubble helmet,” designed to protect flight attendants from the rain. Its aesthetic was inspired by the retro-futuristic look of mid-60s airline travel.

“The Puccino” had a zipper and sash in the back of the garment.

Pucci’s Gemini IV also inspired its own Barbie collection, another example of the influence that Pucci’s designs had on the style of uniforms, but also the way in which the flight attendant position was marketed as desirable to young women through designer clothing. The Braniff gift set featured all four of the pieces in the Chicago History Museum’s collection and their accessories, such as the matching gloves, boots, space helmet, and flats.

Bibliography

Contact@somethingabouttheboy.com. “1967 the Braniff International Pilot Ken.” Something About The Boy, September 24, 2023.

Imperato, Simone. “Emilio Pucci for Braniff Int’l.” PASHION FLOWER, October 16, 2014.

Lehoczky, Etelka. “Stewardess Chic ; when Air Travel Meant More than just Getting there: [Chicago Final Edition].” Chicago Tribune, April 2, 2003.

Maher, Mary and Barry Rohan. “You can Hardly Tell they’re Uniforms: … and that’s the Big News. Uniforms are Getting More Stylish, Less Institutionalized.” Chicago Tribune, October 17, 1965.

“Press Images.” Fashion Takes Flight in New SFO Museum Exhibition | SFO Museum. Accessed August 22, 2024.

“The 1960s Pucci Air Hostess Uniforms, Ideal for Mile High ‘Stripping.’” Messy Nessy Chic, January 23, 2018.

“Women’s Fashion and the Airline Industry.” National Air and Space Museum, December 7, 2021.